A simple scrappy tablecloth.

Here is a quick and easy tablecloth tutorial for anyone who is ready to dust off their sewing machine and get instant gratification. The whole project will take anywhere from an hour to three hours depending on your skill level and how many interruptions you have during the process.

First, you must choose your fabric. I used scraps, but I would recommend going with a heavier weight fabric like bottom weight fabric, linen weight fabric or home decor fabric.

Secondly, you must consider the size of your table. Most bottom weight fabrics are at least 52 to 60 inches wide. You can locate the fabric width on the top of the bolt along with care instructions and the fiber composition. If you are working with a 52 to 60 inch wide fabric and your wanting to cover a small table top, like a bistro table, then you won't need to double your width. However, if you're trying to cover a larger table, like say a 54 to 60 inch table, you will definitely want to double if not triple your fabric width. (Want to know for sure if you need to double your width? Lay your fabric on your table top like I did in the picture below. If you have enough fabric to cover your entire table top and still have a long enough drop around the entire table then you don't need to double your width.)

Okay, let's get started. If you need to double/triple your fabric you will need to measure the diameter of your table + the drop you want on your tablecloth (x2). (Note: the drop is the length you want your tablecloth to fall over the sides.)


Above: I've laid the fabric over the table so that the drop I want is present on both sides. Notice there is no fabric falling over the vertical sides, only the horizontal sides. This means that I need to double my width so that I can get an even drop on all sides of my table.
Diameter+drop(2)=T (total length needed)

Once you've done that, you will take two pieces of fabric the (T) and sew them together. To triple the width, you will again sew another section (T) of fabric to the first two. Make sure all seams are on the wrong side of the fabric (the wrong side will be the side of your fabric that lays flat against the table).


Above: Here you see I've joined two sections. If I had wanted a longer drop I would have joined another piece. (Note: the view above is of the wrong side of the fabric where the seam is exposed)


Now you will fold the your newly joined fabric in half vertically and then in half horizontally and then in half diagonally....We're making a triangle (see the image below). Now we will refer to our original equation: Diameter + drop(x2)=T .

Rather than trying to cut a gigantic circle we will take 1/2 of the diameter (the radius) + drop and use this as our new measurement. We don't need to multiply the drop because we're cutting half of the tablecloth...I know, it's a bit confusing, but trust me. We will measure from the tip of the triangle down towards the raw edges. We will cut on an arch, not a straight line.


Above: I've cut an arch in my triangle the length of the radius + the drop I want.

Now, for this version you're almost finished. But you could add trim, a flounce or lace. I've chosen to add a flounce to my tablecloth and I took that into consideration when I measured my drop length. If you're interested in learning more about adding a flounce or another embellishment to your tablecloth please contact me and I'll give you additional instructions.

The next step is to serge or stay stitch around the perimeter of your tablecloth. If you don't have a serger, a stay stitch will work just as well. Essentially, we're just trying to provide a road map for you to follow as we iorn our hem and stitch it in place.


Above: I've serged around the perimeter of the tablecloth.

Once you've stitched around your tablecloth you can iron the hem in place.



Next you will want to stitch your hem in place. I was going for a whimsical look so I used both a straight stitch and a zig zag stitch to finish my hem, but you could use one or the other or even a decorative stitch. Please notice, I'm using the right finger of my presser foot to guide my fabric along the the folded edge. This will give me a consistent hem and a straight even seam.



Finally, I move the presser foot over to the left so that the edge of the presser foot is against the first seam. This gives me a parallel, finished look that is functional in that it secures the raw edges of your tablecloth and is visually interesting.

Above: I'm pulling my top thread and bobbin thread out so that I can reposition my presser foot.


Above: I've repositioned the presser foot so that the right edge of the presser foot is against the first seam. Now I will sew a zig zag seam parallel to the original seam.


Above: The finished hem seam. Note how the zig zag stitch has interlocked the raw serged edge of the hem so that it doesn't fly away, roll, or fray.


Finally, the finished tablecloth. As you can see, this tablecloth has a shorter drop. You can make the drop longer if you wish. I choose a shorter drop so that it wouldn't be tempting for my children to grab during dinner :)

This is a great tablecloth to start with if you're interested in doing some home decorating projects. Before the week is out I'll post a table round, which is not exactly the same as a tablecloth. It has three simple seams and it is often used in many home decorating applications, as underskirts for dinning room/kitchen tables and as fancier table dressings. Often times table rounds will go all the way to the floor, but they don't always have to grace the floor.