I am so full of ideas that I literally have to take a step back and just look at my machine in all it's glory...Such a beautiful piece of equipment. I have several items in the Que. Currently, I'm wrapping up my gift to a family friend (five glorious pillows for a window seat). They turned out beautifully and will be featured tomorrow when I post an entry dedicated to all the things I've made in March.
Next, I have a few gym bags to whip up, an ipod mini case to make, a planner cover to create, and a few baby gifts to get organized--although it will be a while before I complete them. You may be wondering why my "to do" list is so lengthy??? Well, it's because we're moving and I'm about to start packing up my sewing room.
In an effort to keep my modest readership entertained, I've planed on taking some of the above mentioned projects and turning them into tutorials once the machines are packed and the fabric is boxed up. I'll also be bringing you some great inspiration and pattern reviews along with some cool Internet finds.
It will be hard for me to hold back, but I'm hoping that the move will be fruitful. And the grand finally to this moving post??? I'll get to recreate my sewing room in our new house. You know what that means; sewing room design and tons of tips and tricks for awesome organization!
I'm looking forward to the move, but I'm not looking forward to curtailing my sewing for the next six weeks. We'll just call it an exercises in patience :)
Saturday, March 21, 2009
Wednesday, March 18, 2009
Baby sling review
As I said in my previous post, My Karma Baby is an AWESOME site that sells baby slings, but also gives acurate and detailed instructions on making baby slings. I've made close to 50 or 60 slings in the past two years so I didn't need to refer to the directions as much, but let me just confirm they were spot on. Also, their sizing chart was very helpful. The sizing piece was actually the main thing I refered to while I made the sling.
I won't go through each individual step, but here are some things I loved about My Karma Baby's "how to" and pictorial tutorial.
1. They go into great detail about fabric, fabric options, and fabric uses. Things like what fabrics are best for summer, swimming/water slings, heavy weight fabric, etc.
2. The pictorial tutorial was clear and consice. I LOVED how clean they kept the photos and how detailed they kept the markings. With the exception of marking the grain and selvedges, they really did a fantastic job.
>>FYI: If you go to make a sling for yourself, you will want to measure aproximately 22 inchis perpindicular to the selvedge (i.e. your selvedge will be to your left and right. You will be measureing the straight grain that bysects the selvedges).
3. All of the steps were clear to a more advanced seamstress. I note that if you were a beginner looking at step three, you would want to really understand that you started with a double thickness of fabric 22 inches wide and aproximately 26 to 29 inches long (from fold to raw edges). You will then fold the double thickness of fabric onto itself. My Karma Baby does a good job of illustrating that there are four thicknesses of fabric, but you can never be too thourough.
4. It's comforting that they are using french seams, but I do think they could have explained french seams a bit more in detail...
>> To complete a french seam you start with the wrong sides of your fabric together. You sew a scant seam (approximately 1/4 inch from the edge). You press open your seam, turn your fabric, press again and sew another 5/8 inch seam from the finished edge of your fabric. Ideally, you will iron your seam to one side, and topstitch your seam almost like you would see on the inseams of jeans. This provides a very finished look with a very durable seam.
5. With regards to the rest of the site, the style of the sling and the pocket I must say I'm more than pleased! Here are some things to consider:
**22 inches is a nice wide sling. Many slings on the market now are 20 to 19 inches wide and that, in my opinion, is not enough to comfortably hold your baby. I've never liked hot slings for this reason. They just are not wide enough for me.
**I love the pocket! That is so wonderful and functional. I loved the pockets on Zolowear slings, but I don't like ring slings...In my opinion the pocket is key.
**The toy ring is fantastic! It's total necessity.
Overall, I think My Karma Baby rocks! How many companies are willing to share their proprietary secrets with the public. They have a fantastic product and they leave a great impression. If you're not up to making a sling yourself, I would highly recommend buying one through them. And if you are in the market to make a sling, their instructions are pretty spot on. As always, feel free to email me if you have any questions.
~M
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
Shower me with slings!
My Karma Baby is a fantastic baby wearing/sling site that I'm now in love with! As some of you know I've been making slings for years. When I lived in Israel I even sold a few of them and I practically lived in a sling with my second son. I've made pocket slings, ergo type baby carriers and several variations in between. I've seen many tutorials and many websites selling their wears, but never have I found a site that had wonderful "how to" tutorials, products for sale, tips, tricks, and wearing instructions.
My Karma Baby is an awesome site. Although I've made this sling 100 times before, I'm going to be making my little sister a sling using their site tomorrow while my kids are in school. I've already cut the fabric and I'm washing the lining as we speak. This will be an excellent opportunity for make something beautiful and functional while I write a review.
In addition to writing a review on their instructions, which I can already tell you from first glance are fantastic, I'll also be writing a review on Amy Buttler's Modern Diaper Bag pattern. I made the bag this weekend for a babyshower and I'm making another one tomorrow for the review. Stay tuned!
My Karma Baby is an awesome site. Although I've made this sling 100 times before, I'm going to be making my little sister a sling using their site tomorrow while my kids are in school. I've already cut the fabric and I'm washing the lining as we speak. This will be an excellent opportunity for make something beautiful and functional while I write a review.
In addition to writing a review on their instructions, which I can already tell you from first glance are fantastic, I'll also be writing a review on Amy Buttler's Modern Diaper Bag pattern. I made the bag this weekend for a babyshower and I'm making another one tomorrow for the review. Stay tuned!
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
Piping, glorious piping!
For this project you will need around 1/4 to 1/2 yard of fabric and four yards of utility cording. A rotary mat and rotary cutter is helpful.
Recently I was asked how to make piping. It just so happens that I am doing a project for a dear friend that requires piping. I've included a lot of photos and a small video clip. Please don't hesitate to contact me directly if you have further questions.
Step 1: prepare bias strips to cover your piping.
For those of you who are completely new to sewing, bias strips are lengths of fabric cut on the bias. They can be any width. It completely depends on what your use. Bias strips are used to bind curved edges, to cover piping and to make bias tape.
What's the bias? The bias is the diagonal weave or the weave that bisects the horizontal and vertical straight grains. Below are some pictures that will show you how to determine the bias.
(above graph taken from About.com)
This is the fabric I'm working with. You can't see it, but the selvages are to the left and right.
Above: I'm folding the fabric on a diaginal, from the lower right corner to the upper left corner.
Above: Here, the fabric is folded on the bias. The bias is now the vertical folded edge you see at the bottom of the triangle.
Above: To make the fabric easier to work with I've folded it onto itself in a second triangle. I've ironed the fabric to insure there are no wrinkles.
Above: I have prepared the fabric to cut. I will be working with the edge of the fabric my finger is pointing to, which is the bias.
Now we will cut our bias strip. I'm using a quilting ruler that is two inches wide. Our first cut will be on the fold so I will only be cutting an inch into the fabric. Every cut after the first cut will be two inches, or one full ruler width.
Above: I've positioned the ruler one inch into the fabric. Notice that the 2 inch ruler is only covering the fabric 1/2 way.
Above: Now I'm cutting on a raw edge. I'll cut the remaining bias strips two inches wide--the entire width of the ruler.
Step 2. Join bias strips
To join bias strips you first will need to iron each strip and then join them at a right angle. Essentially, you will take one strip, right side up, and lay another strip perpendicular to the first strip, right side down, and sew diagonally through the joint. I do a technique that is similar to strip piecing in quilting. I start my chain of bias joints as I described above and then rather than stopping, cutting the thread, and sewing a new joint, I flip the bias strip over so that the right side faces me and lay another bias strip right side down on top of the original bias strip. It's better if you take a look...
Above: I've laid one bias strip on top of another, right sides together. I will be bisect the joint by sewing from the left upper corner of the join to the right lower corner of the joint.
Above: you can see here that I am sewing directly through the two bias strips diagonally. You can complete the seam, cut the thread, lift the presserfoot and start a new joint; or you can continue sewing five or six stitches and pick up the next segment.
It's difficult to explain this, but basically you would stop sewing, take a moment to turn the tail of the newly joined bias strip so that its right side is facing you, place a new bias strip on top of the end of the bias strip you flipped over. Position it to gluide unde the presser foot and begin sewing.
Either way, your goal will be to create one long length of bias tape.
Above: If you chain piece your bias strips as I described above you will end up with the tangled mess you pictured. Not to worry, it's quickly untangled.
Above: To untangle your bias tape, simply snip all of the joining threads.
Above: now that everything is untangled, it's time to trim the excess from you joints. Once you've trimmed all of your seams/joints iron them all open and we're ready to start making piping!
Step 3: Make Piping
We will be creating a sandwich with our piping and bias tape.
Change your presser foot from a multipurpose foot or zig zag foot to a zipper foot.
Lay your bias tape right side down, wrong side facing you. Place your utility cord in the center of your bias tape. Fold the bias tape over your utility cord and place your presserfoot snuggly against the buldge of your cord. Start sewing using your left hand to guid the binding close to your presserfoot. You want to almost push your piping under the presserfoot. This will help you get a close fit. Here is a video...I was sewing and producing so, I thank you for your patience.
And Voila! finished piping. The next step is applying it to your pillow, slipcover, valence, or other home decor project. I'll be appling this piping to pillows. Look for those in the days to come.
~M
Recently I was asked how to make piping. It just so happens that I am doing a project for a dear friend that requires piping. I've included a lot of photos and a small video clip. Please don't hesitate to contact me directly if you have further questions.
Step 1: prepare bias strips to cover your piping.
For those of you who are completely new to sewing, bias strips are lengths of fabric cut on the bias. They can be any width. It completely depends on what your use. Bias strips are used to bind curved edges, to cover piping and to make bias tape.
What's the bias? The bias is the diagonal weave or the weave that bisects the horizontal and vertical straight grains. Below are some pictures that will show you how to determine the bias.
(above graph taken from About.com)
This is the fabric I'm working with. You can't see it, but the selvages are to the left and right.
Above: I'm folding the fabric on a diaginal, from the lower right corner to the upper left corner.
Above: Here, the fabric is folded on the bias. The bias is now the vertical folded edge you see at the bottom of the triangle.
Above: To make the fabric easier to work with I've folded it onto itself in a second triangle. I've ironed the fabric to insure there are no wrinkles.
Above: I have prepared the fabric to cut. I will be working with the edge of the fabric my finger is pointing to, which is the bias.
Now we will cut our bias strip. I'm using a quilting ruler that is two inches wide. Our first cut will be on the fold so I will only be cutting an inch into the fabric. Every cut after the first cut will be two inches, or one full ruler width.
Above: I've positioned the ruler one inch into the fabric. Notice that the 2 inch ruler is only covering the fabric 1/2 way.
Above: Now I'm cutting on a raw edge. I'll cut the remaining bias strips two inches wide--the entire width of the ruler.
Step 2. Join bias strips
To join bias strips you first will need to iron each strip and then join them at a right angle. Essentially, you will take one strip, right side up, and lay another strip perpendicular to the first strip, right side down, and sew diagonally through the joint. I do a technique that is similar to strip piecing in quilting. I start my chain of bias joints as I described above and then rather than stopping, cutting the thread, and sewing a new joint, I flip the bias strip over so that the right side faces me and lay another bias strip right side down on top of the original bias strip. It's better if you take a look...
Above: I've laid one bias strip on top of another, right sides together. I will be bisect the joint by sewing from the left upper corner of the join to the right lower corner of the joint.
Above: you can see here that I am sewing directly through the two bias strips diagonally. You can complete the seam, cut the thread, lift the presserfoot and start a new joint; or you can continue sewing five or six stitches and pick up the next segment.
It's difficult to explain this, but basically you would stop sewing, take a moment to turn the tail of the newly joined bias strip so that its right side is facing you, place a new bias strip on top of the end of the bias strip you flipped over. Position it to gluide unde the presser foot and begin sewing.
Either way, your goal will be to create one long length of bias tape.
Above: If you chain piece your bias strips as I described above you will end up with the tangled mess you pictured. Not to worry, it's quickly untangled.
Above: To untangle your bias tape, simply snip all of the joining threads.
Above: now that everything is untangled, it's time to trim the excess from you joints. Once you've trimmed all of your seams/joints iron them all open and we're ready to start making piping!
Step 3: Make Piping
We will be creating a sandwich with our piping and bias tape.
Change your presser foot from a multipurpose foot or zig zag foot to a zipper foot.
Lay your bias tape right side down, wrong side facing you. Place your utility cord in the center of your bias tape. Fold the bias tape over your utility cord and place your presserfoot snuggly against the buldge of your cord. Start sewing using your left hand to guid the binding close to your presserfoot. You want to almost push your piping under the presserfoot. This will help you get a close fit. Here is a video...I was sewing and producing so, I thank you for your patience.
And Voila! finished piping. The next step is applying it to your pillow, slipcover, valence, or other home decor project. I'll be appling this piping to pillows. Look for those in the days to come.
~M
Friday, March 6, 2009
Working with knit
Tonight I decided to make a yoga shirt. I had all of this blue knit fabric that I had purchased in Israel and I figured I might as well use it, so I pulled it out and got to work. In the past I've been a bit scared of knits. As a fabric, it's a difficult medium to work with and there are some tricks you need to know in order to get started. Although I love the shirt I made tonight I decided that I would write about handling the fabric not the actual project. We'll touch base on yoga wear during a different post. Let's begin!
First, let me say that choosing the right needle is of utmost importance. Over the last year I've experimented with various needle sizes, I've read literature on needle life, and I've tried virtually every specialty needle on the market. I won't discuss my brand preference, but I will say that using the appropriate needle and changing your needle frequently are two keys to sewing success.
Above: A stretch needle will help you with Lycra and other true stretch fabrics. A ball point needle will help you with knit fabric (this includes jersey, velor knit, t-shirt material, sweatshirt jersey, etc).
When working with knits you will likely use a ball point needle. Ball point needles penetrate between the knitted fibers not through the fibers like universal needles. This is important especially when working with light weight knits. If you use a universal needle, you run the risk of actually creating holes in your fabric that will degrade the integrity of your garment.
Now that we've covered needle choices, lets talk about your fabric and your pattern. Choose a pattern that is specifically designed for knit fabric. Some examples are:Butterick 5101
The pattern jacket will tell you what fabrics are suitable for the garments shown . The first few times you work with knit fabric you should follow these guidelines, but once you become more comfortable with knit fabric you can tailor your pattern to just about any fabric you choose.
You will cut out your pattern just like any other pattern. Once you have all of your pieces cut and marked you will begin sewing. Here are some helpful hints to get you started.
-Do not pull your fabric through the machine. It's tempting to pull or push fabric regardless of what type of fabric you're working with. Although I tell all of my students NOT to pull there fabric or force their fabric through the feed dogs, it's especially important here. Pushing or pulling your fabric through the machine is only going to distort your garment. Knit fabric is SO easy to distort and our objective here is to maintain shape. Let the feed dogs do all the work. On a properly working machine, you should not have to pull or push your fabric. It should glide through between the presser foot and the feed dogs with ease. If this is a problem, I would have your machine checked and tuned up.
-Change your needle after ever four to six hours of sewing or if you feel that your needle has been stressed by a bulky seam or pin. This will maintain stitch regularity and it will help your machine perform to your expectations.
-Finishing is important. Here I will talk briefly about using three stitching techniques: stay stitching or serging, topstitching, and utility stitches.
--Stay stitching or serging will keep your cut piece of fabric in shape and it will help you when you are ironing a hem or preparing to join pieces.
Above: I've stay stitched the neck and sleeve hems.
Above: I've used my stay stitch/serged edge to guide my iron as I fold my edge over.
--Topstitching reinforces your inseams and it helps your garment to look professionally finished. Notice, I always use my presser foot as a guide. I find it gives me a very accurate and straight line parallel to my finished edge. Its a fantastic way to get a high end look without buying extra feet or working with chalk lines.
Above: I'm now topstitiching my finished edges in place (necklines and hems).
--Utility stitches can be used as decoration, as seen below, but they are also useful in lieu of a serger. This is partly because they interlock your fabric with several parallel stitches, but they also tend to provide more stretch--key when working with knits (NOTE: A stretch fabric is not always a knit, but a knit fabric always has stretch!).
Here I've used a honeycomb stitch as a decorative stitch, but in reality it's a stretch utility stitch.
Sewing a knit garment isn't much different than sewing a woven garment. You just have to be prepared for a little extra flexibility. Below is a synopsis of what I did...
The first step I used is to serge or stay stitch (if you don't have a serger) the edges of my pattern piece that will need to be hemmed and finished. Why is this important??? Because it helps me to guide the fabric around curves and corners when I'm ironing and sewing, it stabalizes the fabric so that we maintain shape and it offers a road map for you to follow.
Secondly, I've ironed and then finished my external seams. Here, an external seam is any seam that is not joined to another. For example, a neckline or sleeve hem are external seams.
Thirdly, I've topstitched the seam using the right finger of my presser foot to guide me through my seam. Then I've added a utility stitch, 1/4 of an inch parallel to my initial seam, to secure my raw edges and to add interest to my garment.
My fourth step is to join all of my inseams. I join my inseams with my serger, you could use an interlock utility stitch if you don't have a serger. Once all of those seams are complete I use a straight stitch to add a safety stitch. Some sergers do this for you. My serger is a four thread model and although it provides a lot of stability, I like having that extra insurance.
Finally, I iron all of my joining seams and topstitch. Topstitching really reinforces the garment and helps it to look professional and clean.
I plan on posting a series of Yoga and exercise projects in the near future. If you're interested in this project and pattern and would like more information please don't hesitate to contact me.
~M
First, let me say that choosing the right needle is of utmost importance. Over the last year I've experimented with various needle sizes, I've read literature on needle life, and I've tried virtually every specialty needle on the market. I won't discuss my brand preference, but I will say that using the appropriate needle and changing your needle frequently are two keys to sewing success.
Above: A stretch needle will help you with Lycra and other true stretch fabrics. A ball point needle will help you with knit fabric (this includes jersey, velor knit, t-shirt material, sweatshirt jersey, etc).
When working with knits you will likely use a ball point needle. Ball point needles penetrate between the knitted fibers not through the fibers like universal needles. This is important especially when working with light weight knits. If you use a universal needle, you run the risk of actually creating holes in your fabric that will degrade the integrity of your garment.
Now that we've covered needle choices, lets talk about your fabric and your pattern. Choose a pattern that is specifically designed for knit fabric. Some examples are:Butterick 5101
The pattern jacket will tell you what fabrics are suitable for the garments shown . The first few times you work with knit fabric you should follow these guidelines, but once you become more comfortable with knit fabric you can tailor your pattern to just about any fabric you choose.
You will cut out your pattern just like any other pattern. Once you have all of your pieces cut and marked you will begin sewing. Here are some helpful hints to get you started.
-Do not pull your fabric through the machine. It's tempting to pull or push fabric regardless of what type of fabric you're working with. Although I tell all of my students NOT to pull there fabric or force their fabric through the feed dogs, it's especially important here. Pushing or pulling your fabric through the machine is only going to distort your garment. Knit fabric is SO easy to distort and our objective here is to maintain shape. Let the feed dogs do all the work. On a properly working machine, you should not have to pull or push your fabric. It should glide through between the presser foot and the feed dogs with ease. If this is a problem, I would have your machine checked and tuned up.
-Change your needle after ever four to six hours of sewing or if you feel that your needle has been stressed by a bulky seam or pin. This will maintain stitch regularity and it will help your machine perform to your expectations.
-Finishing is important. Here I will talk briefly about using three stitching techniques: stay stitching or serging, topstitching, and utility stitches.
--Stay stitching or serging will keep your cut piece of fabric in shape and it will help you when you are ironing a hem or preparing to join pieces.
Above: I've stay stitched the neck and sleeve hems.
Above: I've used my stay stitch/serged edge to guide my iron as I fold my edge over.
--Topstitching reinforces your inseams and it helps your garment to look professionally finished. Notice, I always use my presser foot as a guide. I find it gives me a very accurate and straight line parallel to my finished edge. Its a fantastic way to get a high end look without buying extra feet or working with chalk lines.
Above: I'm now topstitiching my finished edges in place (necklines and hems).
--Utility stitches can be used as decoration, as seen below, but they are also useful in lieu of a serger. This is partly because they interlock your fabric with several parallel stitches, but they also tend to provide more stretch--key when working with knits (NOTE: A stretch fabric is not always a knit, but a knit fabric always has stretch!).
Here I've used a honeycomb stitch as a decorative stitch, but in reality it's a stretch utility stitch.
Sewing a knit garment isn't much different than sewing a woven garment. You just have to be prepared for a little extra flexibility. Below is a synopsis of what I did...
The first step I used is to serge or stay stitch (if you don't have a serger) the edges of my pattern piece that will need to be hemmed and finished. Why is this important??? Because it helps me to guide the fabric around curves and corners when I'm ironing and sewing, it stabalizes the fabric so that we maintain shape and it offers a road map for you to follow.
Secondly, I've ironed and then finished my external seams. Here, an external seam is any seam that is not joined to another. For example, a neckline or sleeve hem are external seams.
Thirdly, I've topstitched the seam using the right finger of my presser foot to guide me through my seam. Then I've added a utility stitch, 1/4 of an inch parallel to my initial seam, to secure my raw edges and to add interest to my garment.
My fourth step is to join all of my inseams. I join my inseams with my serger, you could use an interlock utility stitch if you don't have a serger. Once all of those seams are complete I use a straight stitch to add a safety stitch. Some sergers do this for you. My serger is a four thread model and although it provides a lot of stability, I like having that extra insurance.
Finally, I iron all of my joining seams and topstitch. Topstitching really reinforces the garment and helps it to look professional and clean.
I plan on posting a series of Yoga and exercise projects in the near future. If you're interested in this project and pattern and would like more information please don't hesitate to contact me.
~M
Tuesday, March 3, 2009
A simple scrappy tablecloth.
Here is a quick and easy tablecloth tutorial for anyone who is ready to dust off their sewing machine and get instant gratification. The whole project will take anywhere from an hour to three hours depending on your skill level and how many interruptions you have during the process.
First, you must choose your fabric. I used scraps, but I would recommend going with a heavier weight fabric like bottom weight fabric, linen weight fabric or home decor fabric.
Secondly, you must consider the size of your table. Most bottom weight fabrics are at least 52 to 60 inches wide. You can locate the fabric width on the top of the bolt along with care instructions and the fiber composition. If you are working with a 52 to 60 inch wide fabric and your wanting to cover a small table top, like a bistro table, then you won't need to double your width. However, if you're trying to cover a larger table, like say a 54 to 60 inch table, you will definitely want to double if not triple your fabric width. (Want to know for sure if you need to double your width? Lay your fabric on your table top like I did in the picture below. If you have enough fabric to cover your entire table top and still have a long enough drop around the entire table then you don't need to double your width.)
Okay, let's get started. If you need to double/triple your fabric you will need to measure the diameter of your table + the drop you want on your tablecloth (x2). (Note: the drop is the length you want your tablecloth to fall over the sides.)
Above: I've laid the fabric over the table so that the drop I want is present on both sides. Notice there is no fabric falling over the vertical sides, only the horizontal sides. This means that I need to double my width so that I can get an even drop on all sides of my table.
Diameter+drop(2)=T (total length needed)
Once you've done that, you will take two pieces of fabric the (T) and sew them together. To triple the width, you will again sew another section (T) of fabric to the first two. Make sure all seams are on the wrong side of the fabric (the wrong side will be the side of your fabric that lays flat against the table).
Above: Here you see I've joined two sections. If I had wanted a longer drop I would have joined another piece. (Note: the view above is of the wrong side of the fabric where the seam is exposed)
Now you will fold the your newly joined fabric in half vertically and then in half horizontally and then in half diagonally....We're making a triangle (see the image below). Now we will refer to our original equation: Diameter + drop(x2)=T .
Rather than trying to cut a gigantic circle we will take 1/2 of the diameter (the radius) + drop and use this as our new measurement. We don't need to multiply the drop because we're cutting half of the tablecloth...I know, it's a bit confusing, but trust me. We will measure from the tip of the triangle down towards the raw edges. We will cut on an arch, not a straight line.
Above: I've cut an arch in my triangle the length of the radius + the drop I want.
Now, for this version you're almost finished. But you could add trim, a flounce or lace. I've chosen to add a flounce to my tablecloth and I took that into consideration when I measured my drop length. If you're interested in learning more about adding a flounce or another embellishment to your tablecloth please contact me and I'll give you additional instructions.
The next step is to serge or stay stitch around the perimeter of your tablecloth. If you don't have a serger, a stay stitch will work just as well. Essentially, we're just trying to provide a road map for you to follow as we iorn our hem and stitch it in place.
Above: I've serged around the perimeter of the tablecloth.
Once you've stitched around your tablecloth you can iron the hem in place.
Next you will want to stitch your hem in place. I was going for a whimsical look so I used both a straight stitch and a zig zag stitch to finish my hem, but you could use one or the other or even a decorative stitch. Please notice, I'm using the right finger of my presser foot to guide my fabric along the the folded edge. This will give me a consistent hem and a straight even seam.
Finally, I move the presser foot over to the left so that the edge of the presser foot is against the first seam. This gives me a parallel, finished look that is functional in that it secures the raw edges of your tablecloth and is visually interesting.
Above: I'm pulling my top thread and bobbin thread out so that I can reposition my presser foot.
Above: I've repositioned the presser foot so that the right edge of the presser foot is against the first seam. Now I will sew a zig zag seam parallel to the original seam.
Above: The finished hem seam. Note how the zig zag stitch has interlocked the raw serged edge of the hem so that it doesn't fly away, roll, or fray.
Finally, the finished tablecloth. As you can see, this tablecloth has a shorter drop. You can make the drop longer if you wish. I choose a shorter drop so that it wouldn't be tempting for my children to grab during dinner :)
This is a great tablecloth to start with if you're interested in doing some home decorating projects. Before the week is out I'll post a table round, which is not exactly the same as a tablecloth. It has three simple seams and it is often used in many home decorating applications, as underskirts for dinning room/kitchen tables and as fancier table dressings. Often times table rounds will go all the way to the floor, but they don't always have to grace the floor.
First, you must choose your fabric. I used scraps, but I would recommend going with a heavier weight fabric like bottom weight fabric, linen weight fabric or home decor fabric.
Secondly, you must consider the size of your table. Most bottom weight fabrics are at least 52 to 60 inches wide. You can locate the fabric width on the top of the bolt along with care instructions and the fiber composition. If you are working with a 52 to 60 inch wide fabric and your wanting to cover a small table top, like a bistro table, then you won't need to double your width. However, if you're trying to cover a larger table, like say a 54 to 60 inch table, you will definitely want to double if not triple your fabric width. (Want to know for sure if you need to double your width? Lay your fabric on your table top like I did in the picture below. If you have enough fabric to cover your entire table top and still have a long enough drop around the entire table then you don't need to double your width.)
Okay, let's get started. If you need to double/triple your fabric you will need to measure the diameter of your table + the drop you want on your tablecloth (x2). (Note: the drop is the length you want your tablecloth to fall over the sides.)
Above: I've laid the fabric over the table so that the drop I want is present on both sides. Notice there is no fabric falling over the vertical sides, only the horizontal sides. This means that I need to double my width so that I can get an even drop on all sides of my table.
Diameter+drop(2)=T (total length needed)
Once you've done that, you will take two pieces of fabric the (T) and sew them together. To triple the width, you will again sew another section (T) of fabric to the first two. Make sure all seams are on the wrong side of the fabric (the wrong side will be the side of your fabric that lays flat against the table).
Above: Here you see I've joined two sections. If I had wanted a longer drop I would have joined another piece. (Note: the view above is of the wrong side of the fabric where the seam is exposed)
Now you will fold the your newly joined fabric in half vertically and then in half horizontally and then in half diagonally....We're making a triangle (see the image below). Now we will refer to our original equation: Diameter + drop(x2)=T .
Rather than trying to cut a gigantic circle we will take 1/2 of the diameter (the radius) + drop and use this as our new measurement. We don't need to multiply the drop because we're cutting half of the tablecloth...I know, it's a bit confusing, but trust me. We will measure from the tip of the triangle down towards the raw edges. We will cut on an arch, not a straight line.
Above: I've cut an arch in my triangle the length of the radius + the drop I want.
Now, for this version you're almost finished. But you could add trim, a flounce or lace. I've chosen to add a flounce to my tablecloth and I took that into consideration when I measured my drop length. If you're interested in learning more about adding a flounce or another embellishment to your tablecloth please contact me and I'll give you additional instructions.
The next step is to serge or stay stitch around the perimeter of your tablecloth. If you don't have a serger, a stay stitch will work just as well. Essentially, we're just trying to provide a road map for you to follow as we iorn our hem and stitch it in place.
Above: I've serged around the perimeter of the tablecloth.
Once you've stitched around your tablecloth you can iron the hem in place.
Next you will want to stitch your hem in place. I was going for a whimsical look so I used both a straight stitch and a zig zag stitch to finish my hem, but you could use one or the other or even a decorative stitch. Please notice, I'm using the right finger of my presser foot to guide my fabric along the the folded edge. This will give me a consistent hem and a straight even seam.
Finally, I move the presser foot over to the left so that the edge of the presser foot is against the first seam. This gives me a parallel, finished look that is functional in that it secures the raw edges of your tablecloth and is visually interesting.
Above: I'm pulling my top thread and bobbin thread out so that I can reposition my presser foot.
Above: I've repositioned the presser foot so that the right edge of the presser foot is against the first seam. Now I will sew a zig zag seam parallel to the original seam.
Above: The finished hem seam. Note how the zig zag stitch has interlocked the raw serged edge of the hem so that it doesn't fly away, roll, or fray.
Finally, the finished tablecloth. As you can see, this tablecloth has a shorter drop. You can make the drop longer if you wish. I choose a shorter drop so that it wouldn't be tempting for my children to grab during dinner :)
This is a great tablecloth to start with if you're interested in doing some home decorating projects. Before the week is out I'll post a table round, which is not exactly the same as a tablecloth. It has three simple seams and it is often used in many home decorating applications, as underskirts for dinning room/kitchen tables and as fancier table dressings. Often times table rounds will go all the way to the floor, but they don't always have to grace the floor.
Monday, March 2, 2009
Finishing Avery's Dress
So, this morning while it snowed outside and the kids were mesmerized by Franklin I finished Avery's dress. Here are the basics:
After completing the bodice and skirt last night I still had topstitching, hemming and minor alterations to finish. I used my two year old as a model and started to work. First I ironed my finished seams and I ironed the serged seam where I joined the bodice to the skirt downward towards the hem of the dress.
Then, I ironed the hem. I gave myself about an inch and a half.
Once everything was ironed I started with the hem. I sewed on top of the serged edge to make sure that I got all of the unfinished edges sewn flat.
Once I had sewn the entire hem, I turned the skirt over, right side facing up. I positioned my presser foot so that the left edge of the presser foot was up against the original seam I had sewn. I topstitched the entire hem parallel to the original hem seam. (This creates a very finished double needle look and does not require any marking or added know how. It's much easier than changing out the needle and it helps with eye hand coordination.)
Once the hem was finished I moved on to topstitching the neck and armholes. I did this by positioning the presser foot so that finished edge was guided by the presser foot. This gives helps you get your stitch close to the edge, allows you to be consistent, and creates a finished look. (note: sometimes you will see double top stitching around the armholes and neck line like you saw on the hem. It's more personal preference than rule of thumb).
Finally, I moved on to the bodice joint. I wanted to topstich the seam that joined the bodice to the skirt for two reasons. The first for security and stability--after all, this is a dress for a two year old. Secondly, I wanted the serged seam to lay flat. To do this I used a zig zag stitch, but you could use two parallel straight stitches or a decorative stitch. You could even attach rick rack or ribbon a this seam to add interest.
Finally, I cut out two squares folded them in half and cut a V half way into the fabric. I took these to odd shaped pieces of fabric and sewed them right sides together so that I could turn them right side out through the flat side of the square (I know this is confusing, see photos below)
The finished pocket turned right side out.
I used a basting stitch to gather the flat side of the soon to be "pocket" and then I pinned it in place. I sewed the bottom of the pocket to the front of the skirt. Once the bottom of the pocket was sewn in place, I folded the pocket flap up and I then pinned the sides of the pocket in place and top stitched them in place. Once that was finished, I took the two triangles tops of the pocket and tied them to make a cute and unique pocket.
Above: Pocket basted and gathered
Below: Pocket pinned to dress skirt. Once sewn I folded the pocket up over the sewn edges, pinned the side seams and sewed them in place. The side seams extend from the bottom of the pocket approximately half way up the square, parallel to the V where the pocket splits. This allows you to tie the split sections into a knot as indicated below.
Once I was finished I tried it on my two year old. It was much too big so I took it in by serging from the armholes to the hem about an inch on either side. This is fine to do with a child's garment because there aren't a lot of curves to take into account, but if you're dealing with an adult garment the you'll need to invest more time taking the seams apart and adjusting various components of the dress, skirt or shirt.
And here is the finished dress...Now, keep in mind this is for a little girl, but all we make in this house are boys. Hopefully he won't remember this in therapy thirty years from now!
~M
After completing the bodice and skirt last night I still had topstitching, hemming and minor alterations to finish. I used my two year old as a model and started to work. First I ironed my finished seams and I ironed the serged seam where I joined the bodice to the skirt downward towards the hem of the dress.
Then, I ironed the hem. I gave myself about an inch and a half.
Once everything was ironed I started with the hem. I sewed on top of the serged edge to make sure that I got all of the unfinished edges sewn flat.
Once I had sewn the entire hem, I turned the skirt over, right side facing up. I positioned my presser foot so that the left edge of the presser foot was up against the original seam I had sewn. I topstitched the entire hem parallel to the original hem seam. (This creates a very finished double needle look and does not require any marking or added know how. It's much easier than changing out the needle and it helps with eye hand coordination.)
Once the hem was finished I moved on to topstitching the neck and armholes. I did this by positioning the presser foot so that finished edge was guided by the presser foot. This gives helps you get your stitch close to the edge, allows you to be consistent, and creates a finished look. (note: sometimes you will see double top stitching around the armholes and neck line like you saw on the hem. It's more personal preference than rule of thumb).
Finally, I moved on to the bodice joint. I wanted to topstich the seam that joined the bodice to the skirt for two reasons. The first for security and stability--after all, this is a dress for a two year old. Secondly, I wanted the serged seam to lay flat. To do this I used a zig zag stitch, but you could use two parallel straight stitches or a decorative stitch. You could even attach rick rack or ribbon a this seam to add interest.
Finally, I cut out two squares folded them in half and cut a V half way into the fabric. I took these to odd shaped pieces of fabric and sewed them right sides together so that I could turn them right side out through the flat side of the square (I know this is confusing, see photos below)
The finished pocket turned right side out.
I used a basting stitch to gather the flat side of the soon to be "pocket" and then I pinned it in place. I sewed the bottom of the pocket to the front of the skirt. Once the bottom of the pocket was sewn in place, I folded the pocket flap up and I then pinned the sides of the pocket in place and top stitched them in place. Once that was finished, I took the two triangles tops of the pocket and tied them to make a cute and unique pocket.
Above: Pocket basted and gathered
Below: Pocket pinned to dress skirt. Once sewn I folded the pocket up over the sewn edges, pinned the side seams and sewed them in place. The side seams extend from the bottom of the pocket approximately half way up the square, parallel to the V where the pocket splits. This allows you to tie the split sections into a knot as indicated below.
Once I was finished I tried it on my two year old. It was much too big so I took it in by serging from the armholes to the hem about an inch on either side. This is fine to do with a child's garment because there aren't a lot of curves to take into account, but if you're dealing with an adult garment the you'll need to invest more time taking the seams apart and adjusting various components of the dress, skirt or shirt.
And here is the finished dress...Now, keep in mind this is for a little girl, but all we make in this house are boys. Hopefully he won't remember this in therapy thirty years from now!
~M
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